Monday 9 September 2013

Washington D.C. A Tale of Two (or Four) Memorials

Despite having been on its doorstep for almost 3 weeks, I still hadn't visited the nation's capital for one reason or another. We began to make up for this last monday when a few of us visited the National Zoo, which was a little way outside the main centre of the city. As with all the Smithsonian Institutions it was absolutely free, and was pretty good. We saw plenty of different animals but the main enjoyment came from seeing a panda for the first time up close, which was pretty special. It had given birth only a week or two previously, so I might have to head back in a while to try and see a baby panda. Overall it was a good trip, but I was still waiting for a proper visit into D.C.

I didn't have to wait too long, as at the weekend we went on the metro to the surprisingly quiet city. As soon as we stepped out the Washington Monument was in sight, although sadly still under scaffolding as repairs continue following an earthquake in 2011. It doesn't spoil the sight of it though, nor of the National Mall which is a great view. On our way there a motorcade of black cars lined the road in front of us and stopped, with a cameraman sticking out of the roof of one. When Georgia asked what was happening, he said "Obama" and the cars drove away... It probably wasn't, but it makes a better story just to believe that we were a few feet away from the President!

Afterwards we walked down the Mall and saw a few of the memorials. The Korean one was probably my favourite, as it's quite peaceful and understated. The figures marching through the grass toward the U.S flag and the ghostly faces on the wall next to it really make you realise the human cost of such a conflict. On the opposite end of the scale is the Lincoln memorial, which is pretty impressive. With his speeches either side, Lincoln is given the stature he arguably deserves as the definitve American President (or at least, the one America would like to be defined by as the President who ended slavery). I was actually more impressed by the view looking out from the memorial, as it reminds of the iconic shots of Martin Luther King Jr delivering his "I Have A Dream" speech. To stand where these famous figures stood was the moment it really hit me that I was in America, and I know that sounds crazy having been here for 3 weeks already. But there's something about being at the places you'd seen and studied for years that makes being there in person pretty special.




Having said all that, the landmarks that surprised me most were the memorials for World War 2 and the Vietnam Veterans, and the differences between them. The WW2 one is only a recent addition in the last decade, and is a grand circle around a fountain with pillars for each State and inscriptions throughout, with structures either side representing the Pacific and Atlantic fronts of the conflict. It's a very ornate and patriotic design, occupying a prime spot between the Monument and Lincoln and proudly praising those who fought in the War, rightfully so. What shocked me is walking not that further along the Mall to the area remembering Vietnam, which is a bit of out of sight and to be honest, is a hole in the ground. There are two bronze statues for the Women and Soldiers, and a wall that cuts into the earth that you walk along and see thousands of names marking those killed. Its a sombre place but not one that felt entirely respectful to me. Despite the war's controversial legacy as something America would rather forget, these soldiers still gave their lives for their country and are remembered with far less ceremony than WW2. I appreciate that one was a victory and the other a failure, but that shouldn't impact how the victims are rembered and it left a bad taste in my mouth.












The rest of our day saw a trip to the Hard Rock Cafe, just down the road from Ford's Theatre where Lincoln was shot by John Wilkes Booth. Opposite was the House where he died, marked by a plaque, and next door was "Lincoln's Waffles", an unbelievable cash-in! The meal was great and there was some cool stuff inside like Elvis' jacket and Dylan's set list. We also took a quick trip to the Museum of American History and saw the original Star-Spangled Banner, but it was the end of the day an it closed pretty quickly. Overall I had a fantastic day in D.C., and was surprised how different it is to London. There's plenty of wide open spaces and monuments everywhere you turn, and it almost feels like walking through a history lesson. I'm looking forward to comparing it with other American cities, as in a few weeks time we'll be taking a day trip to New York.

A

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